In Person: Michael Kittredge
Friday, May 18th, 2007By William Ferrall
Photography by Terry Pommett
There is truth in wine, goes the saying, but many wine enthusiasts find that friendships are uppermost when sharing a glass with others. So it goes with Yankee Candle founder Michael Kittredge, say those who know him and know his passion for wine.
Many meaningful relationships like this one are born at the table, noted Denis Toner, a longtime friend of Kittredge and the founder and president of Nantucket Wine Festival. The two met a dozen years ago when Toner was sommelier at The Chanticleer, Nantuckets renowned French restaurant in ‘Sconset. “We hit it off,” Toner recalled, “because he was passionate about wine without being pretentious.”
In fact, Kittredge was the first Nantucket homeowner to invite Wine Festival attendees into his home for what has become a central feature of the event, “Great Wines in Grand Houses.” Those dinners pair winemakers from around the globe with top chefs from distinguished local and regional restaurants for intimate meals in private island homes.
Regular strollers on North Wharf are familiar with Kittredge’s 197-foot Feadship yacht, Paraffin, which often docks there during the summer. Far fewer have seen his similarly grand “Acklandia” estate on the eastern side of Nantucket. Out there, Kittredge, along with his wife Lisa and their two young children, shares a family home set snug beside a sheltered harbor—one of several structures in the compound, including tennis courts, staff housing and multiple-stall garages for Kittredge’s antique vehicles and family cars.
On a nearby promontory with sweeping views of the horizon and Nantucket Town to the west, a large pavilion-shaped lodge features a spacious dining room, a balconied pub and lounge area, a professional gourmet kitchen and numerous guest rooms. A massive geometric dining table—its shape echoes the octagonal sides of the lodge interior—can be expanded to seat 48 guests for dinner.
On a recent visit, children’s toys were visible around the lodge’s dining room where the table was set with white linens, glassware and fresh flowers for a large dinner party that night. The Kittredge family chef busied herself in the kitchen while the butler tidied up the place settings.
Invited by Kittredge down a narrow stairway, we entered a dimly-lit underground cavern of impressive size, with a beamed ceiling and thick round pillars of polished oak. Lining the walls around half the room, behind thick glass windows, familiar cork and foil tops of wine bottles were aligned in rows and bins, stacked one on top of another from floor to ceiling. A half-dozen café tables and oak Windsor chairs offered ringside seats to view the considerable cache of wines, which numbers over 3,000 bottles with room for about 3,500, according to Kittredge.
“There’s probably not a better cellar on the island for both aesthetics and selection,” noted Toner.
His impressive vault testifies to sweet revenge for Kittredge after an incident two decades ago that launched his quest for knowledge about wine.“I was on a date at the Ritz Carleton in Boston,” Kittredge recalled. “They brought me a huge wine list, very French.” After making an uneducated guess at what might be an appropriate selection, the waiter turned up his nose at Kittredge and said, “Ah, no, no, no. That would be very devastating.”
“I swore then that I would learn all I could about wine,” said Kittredge laughing.
Michael & Lisa KittredgeUnhappily, his early ventures in wine collection turned sour as well. After he purchased a case of French Bordeaux“first growth” Chateau Haut-Brion, he proudly displayed the bottles near a sunny window, atop a rack he built himself. “The first bottle tasted pretty good,” Kittredge reminisced. “The second wasn’t quite as good, and pretty soon they were pink in color and not at all good.”
Those early missteps might be hard to imagine for someone who is now known as an expert collector of fine wines. “He has many well-chosen [wines],” explained Toner, “made up largely of the two pillars of red Bordeaux and white Burgundy. He has chosen wines that reward cellaring.”
A wine collection put together smartly and expertly by Kittredge would surprise few who know of his other successes. In 1972, he founded Yankee Candle Company in Holyoke, Massachusetts, after experimenting with candle-making and sales as a teenager. By the time he sold the company in 1998 to private equity firm Forstmann Little for a reported $500 million, Yankee Candle had become the country’s leading candle maker. Kittredge remained as chairman of the company until he retired in 2003.
Last year, Yankee Candle was acquired once again by private equity firm Madison Dearborn Partners in a deal estimated worth an estimated $1.7 billion.
In the last two years Kittrege has generously shared whatever fortune he has found from those transactions. The Kittredge Center for Business and Workforce Development at Holyoke Community College opened in March of last year with help from a $1 million donation from Kittredge. In May of last year, the Kittredges pledged another $1 million to Cooley Dickinson Hospital in Northampton, Massachusetts, not far from their Amherst, Massachusetts, home.
Such largesse comes easily to Kittredge. At Yankee Candle, he adopted some of the most labor-friendly work practices and benefits programs in our region. “I thought of Michael early on for the ‘Great Wines’ dinners,” recalled Toner. “He was well known for his hospitality and his generosity, combined with his passion for wine.” “Michael never hesitates to bring out
something special,” said Nantucket friend Susan Hostetler. “He and Lisa are a wonderful match, and generous and fun wine collectors.”
At this year’s Nantucket Wine Festival, Kittredge’s hospitality and passion for wine take center stage at a Great Wines dinner featuring the centuries-old Italian vineyard Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, with food by chef Daniel Bruce of Meritage at Boston Harbor Hotel. Like the other four Great Wines dinners during Nantucket Wine Festival, this one has been sold-out
for weeks.
“His cellar is not an ‘instant cellar,’” Toner noted. “It’s the product of a great collector, one like Michael who’s known for his precision and passion. He’s precise and he’s full of life.”








