On Shifting Sand: Sconset Bluff Owners Seek to Hold Back Erosion
Sunday, August 28th, 2005By Peter Brace
Philosophically, you can see their reasoning for spending millions of dollars to hold back the unwanted advances of the often-aggressive Atlantic Ocean.
Every chance she gets, the great Atlantic paws, grabs and gropes at beach and bluff along Nantucket’s eastern shoreline, which holds generations of summertime memories for seasonal residents, along with the promise of many more to come. In the summer, the ocean is relatively coy and relaxed, seemingly content to let us enjoy summer and even allowing the beaches to widen and the bluffs to rest.
But from fall through late spring, the honeymoon is over, with the ocean hurling its monstrous waves onto the beaches and at the toe of the bluff from just north of Sankaty Head Lighthouse to south of Codfish Park. Nor’easters take a heavy toll on this section of Nantucket’s shoreline. During the mightiest of these blows, huge chunks of bluff fall down to the beach below as the relentless waves gnaw at the base of the bluff, undercutting it and causing its upper bulwarks to collapse.
If the storm is severe and long enough, whole houses may topple down the bluff. Despite the recent dire publicity of the process, the erosion of Nantucket Island’s sandy shores is nothing new, and in five- or six-hundred years—the popular estimate—it could whittle the Grey Lady down to a sandbar only exposed at low tide.
But before it does, a group of Nantucket property owners are doing their best to stave off the inevitable, if only long enough to enjoy their ocean views in at least their and their children’s lifetimes.
Calling themselves the Siasconset Beach Preservation Fund, this group composed of Baxter Road and Codfish Park beach
property owners as well as inland ’Sconseters is 15 years old this summer, with more than 400 individual contributors. From its formative years in the early 1990s and up through mid-2005, SBPF has employed a variety of innovative erosion-slowing measures, some successful and others bringing less than longed-for results. Arguably they have accomplished their mission, but they have also sustained heavy losses.
Painfully aware that the ocean absolutely will not stop and that the depth of many of its members’ lots is growing shallower while their wallets grow lighter, SBPF is working on a massive erosion control project designed to shore up three miles of beach from the lighthouse down to the old sewer beds. Using sand from the ocean floor offshore, SBPF wants to provide the hungry ocean with enough sand to munch on instead of letting it dine on upland soils and back porches.
Disappearing dunes
In 1974, Helmut Weymar, one of the founding members of the Siasconset Beach Preservation Fund—the group’s most visible, vocal member and now its vice president—began renting the house that he now owns at 78 Baxter Road. In that decade, residents of the bluff likely had a more bucolic, romantic description for erosion, such as “the roar of the ocean” or “waves lapping on the beach.” And while Weymar and other residents were aware of beach loss, they didn’t give it much attention.
Helmut Weymar, president of the SBPF, with an aerial photo illustrating the beach nourishment program.
“There were two-hundred feet of dunes in front of the house and that was similar for other residents here. Yes, there was an erosion issue, but it wasn’t that much of an issue,” said Weymar. He believes the southward erosion of the bluff began to have noticeable impacts on the area in the 1940s. Cognizant of that, in 1988 Weymar and some of his neighbors hired Frank Fessenden, a Bentley College geologist, to measure the erosion. Planting posts from the water’s edge up the bluff and inland at set increments, Fessenden and his clients charted the advance of the ocean. What they saw in the data collected over just two years prompted them to form the Siasconset Erosion Committee, the precursor to SBPF.
Holding open meetings in the ‘Sconset Casino, the new group began looking at preventive measures to control what they now believed could take all of their properties out to sea in a very short time
if nothing was done. Proposals of seawalls, submerged barges as artificial reefs, tires cabled together, concrete structures below the beach sand and giant sand-filled bags called Geotubes were explored over three summers and six public hearings. Initially, a daunting maze of permit protocols kept the committee searching for more feasible solutions. Serendipitously, they talked about beach nourishment with sand from offshore shoals, but at an estimated cost of $10 million at that time, their focus turned to the new beach dewatering technology called Sta-beach.
“For various reasons, we rejected everything but the dewatering and we were extremely impressed by the project, a demonstration that the Danish government did with wave action like that of Nantucket’s,” said Weymar. “An even more striking piece to that story is that back in the forties, somebody at MIT theorized that this would be a way, but nobody every did it. They [Denmark] did it by accident.”
The “accident” occurred at a Danish aquarium that extended pipes out under a beach into the ocean to provide its sea life with well-circulated seawater. But the pipes kept clogging with sand and the aquarium had to keep extending its pipes, as the beach grew seaward. Thus, dewatering was born.
SBPF convinced enough of its members that the $1.5 million needed to install the system—a network of perforated PVC pipes beneath the beach that pumped wave water back out to sea, leaving sand behind to build the beach outward—was the way to go. Installation in front of Codfish Park and from the lighthouse to Bayberry Lane (70 Baxter Road) began in the summer of 1994, but was hampered by a nor’easter that August, forcing them to split the lighthouse-area system into two sections.
Although the Codfish Park installation eventually added around 100 feet to that beach from 1995 through 1999 overall, none of the three installations could handle the weather.
“The longest we ever got to get this thing to run was nine months,” said Weymar.
“It was clearly under-engineered. We did not have systems that could withstand the weather here and the different types of storms.”
In addition to the breakdown-plagued Codfish Park system, a large hole in one of the pipes farthest south in the lighthouse-area system caused a massive sinkhole in the beach, forcing SBPF to shut that system down. SBPF shut down the remaining northern 550-foot lighthouse system that year as well. Although SBPF wants to restart all systems now, Nantucket’s Conservation Commission isn’t in favor of it. Weymar is sure they’ll come around.
A sand tortilla
With the relative failure of the dewatering system, in the last five years SBPF turned to several bluff containment installations designed to keep the bluff from sliding down to the beach while it worked on
re-starting its systems. They planted a beefy form of snow fence made of plastic webbing called Dune Guard in a zigzag layout on the beach below the problem spots, but SBPF’s most aggressive project since the dewatering system shut down is its terracing of the bluff.
Using thick, biodegradable coconut fiber mats called coir, starting from the toe of the bluff working upwards, the mats were folded over like giant tortillas and filled with sand before each section was folded over on top of the other, stepping-up gradually and deepening sections up the bluff. The mats were anchored by four-inch-square pressure-treated posts pounded deep into the bluff face and, in some places, fortified with pressure-treated planks running horizontally across the posts against the soil.
Up on the bluff, hundreds of narrow diameter drainage wells were drilled to pierce the clay layer in the ground running along parts of the bluff. Those allow runoff to percolate through the sandy soil beneath the clay and back into the aquifer below. This stops water from flowing over the clay and down the bluff face, thus eroding it from the top-down.
Weymar and SBPF are hoping that these latest erosion control efforts will work in concert with the beach nourishment project and the dewatering systems,
if they can be re-started. “There are clearly linkages,” said Weymar. “The toe protection I would categorize as holding protection. When storms get big enough, they actually take out some toe protection and we lose some bluff.”
The believers
Lawrence McQuade at 97 Baxter Road lost half his cottage to a three-day nor’easter in February. With the ocean battering away at the toe of his section of the bluff, the top of it cascaded down to the beach below making his cottage flush with the new edge of the bluff. McQuade got an emergency permit from the Conservation Commission to cut away half of his backyard guest accommodations before the eroding soils took the entire structure all at once. He still attributes the loss to last winter’s erosion, which only served to steel his resolve to keep fighting it by supporting SBPF.
After all, McQuade and his family got into SBPF in the beginning. He has seen his neighbors to the north move their houses back one by one or across the road to their inland lots as the erosion of the bluff progressed southward. He knew two things for sure: that his land and his buildings could easily be next and that he could not move his house across the road further inland.
“I think we felt there ought to be some reasonable way to deter the erosion from the bluff, and some of the ways that it might have been done seemed to be forbidden by the local authorities,like putting some boulders at the bottom of the bluff, and we we’re frustrated by that,” said McQuade.
Listening to Weymar speak at the SBPF meetings, McQuade liked what he heard. “We all knew without any doubt that this is experimental and, as I recall, there had been some of these dewatering installations elsewhere in the world with some success [and there was the] mixed belief that it could work here. We clung to that.”
The McQuades weren’t the only ‘Sconseters to lose land and cottages.
The worst property losses the angry ocean smote on beachfront owners happened in Codfish Park in the early 1990s. A nor’easter in December, 1992, picked up Sand Piper—one of Harrison Smith’s two beach cottages—and swept it out whole just offshore then hammered it with several 20-foot waves that blew it into bits. His second cottage followed later in that storm. The next winter, the waves reached Ray Maki’s house, which had been behind Smith’s prior to the December, 1992, storm. The town condemned Maki’s house in 1993, along with that of his southerly neighbor, Donald Hollings’ house. Hollings had built his house on long pilings sunk deep into the sand to meet new floodplain construction standards enforced by the Federal Emergency Management Agency. Despite his efforts, the beach washed away beneath his house, leaving it teetering toward the surf 15 feet above the beach. At the urging of the Conservation Commission, Hollings eventually cut his house free of its pilings cum foundation and moved it inland to a safer lot on Sleetwing Circle in Siasconset.
A noble experiment
Not that he could have predicted the tragic events that befell the Codfish Park properties in the winter storms of the early 1990s, but a former resident of the bluff along Baxter Road—who moved off-island last fall and wished not to be identified—believes there’s no way of stopping or even reasonably slowing the ocean enough to save waterfront property. He didn’t buy into the Siasconset Beach Preservation Fund’s beach dewatering spiel and couldn’t fathom how his neighbors could throw so much money—tens of thousands to millions of dollars—at a project the ocean will most certainly wash away, along with their land and houses.
“Helmut had a meeting and he explained how he and others felt that erosion could be stopped by certain methods. I tried to keep an open mind at that time, but I wasn’t at all convinced,” said the former Baxter Road resident. “I think I put up twenty-five dollars at the time and that was all.”
This longtime bluff dweller whose father built their simple, one-story house in 1950 on the ocean side of Baxter Road and who lived in it from 1980 through October, 2004, had his fears confirmed in 1992. That year, he and his wife had their house moved deeper inland on their lot as the edge of the bluff—under siege from numerous winter storms including the nor’easter of 1991 known as the Perfect Storm—crept to within 28 feet of their back doorstep. Before Weymar and SBPF even got going, this guy’s mind was made up. Once the dewatering system came online, from his view of the bluff, his speculation quickly proved his theories.
“I wasn’t convinced after he got started,” he said. “They were going to put pumps under the sand and supposedly the waves would hit the beach and leave the sand behind. That did not happen. In other words, the winters were so severe that they were negating what they did in the summer.”
Unlike his former neighbor, McQuade is not ready to give up, but he does now share the sentiment about the dewatering system’s unworthiness. Though he admits to knowing little about what Weymar and the SBPF board are working on right now, he remains a member willing to contribute financially to the effort.
“Evidently it doesn’t work,” said McQuade. “That’s the short of it as far as we’re concerned. It was a noble experiment. We honor the people who led us into the route because we all share the common feeling that we had to work together and we are grateful that there were a few people who stood up to lead, even if it didn’t work.”
Beach building
SBPF’s latest project is an ambitious beach nourishment plan that proposes to rebuild the beach from several hundred yards north of Sankaty Head Lighthouse down past Ocean Avenue in Siasconset. Initially, SBPF wants to mine 1.6 million cubic yards of sand from one of several shoals roughly three miles offshore.
“The erosion has gotten worse,” said Cheryl Bartlett, SBPF’s executive director in charge of this new project. “There’s much more urgency to do it now, and beach nourishment is the most environmentally friendly way to prevent erosion. We’re the only coastal state in the country that’s not doing beach nourishment.”
Bartlett said SBPF would barge the sand close to shore, create slurry out of the sand and pump it onto the beach. The sand would be used to build up the original beach, then another beach would be layed on top and in front as a snack for the ocean.
“What’s a little bit misunderstood is that roughly half the beach one installs is a design beach and is basically there to protect the dunes and the upland,” said Weymar. “In front of that you put the sacrificial beach. With normal storm activity over a five-year period, you will lose the sacrificial beach down to the design beach.”
Weymar estimates that over the course of the project that includes the initial installation and two renourishments at five-year intervals, SBPF could mine and pump a total of 2.4 million cubic yards of sand onto their beach, costing members $10 to $15 million.
“The ugliness of dewatering is that we haven’t been able to make it work, except in Codfish Park, and we know that beach nourishment can work because it works in other locations,” said Weymar. “What’s changed with beach nourishment since the early eighties [is that] three things happened. The threat has worsened for a large number of properties, there’s a much broader, immediate recognition of the erosion issue now and the property values have increased so much.
“The amount of property value an individual is protecting is much larger than before, so it’s rational to make a much larger contribution to the effort.”
Currently, SBPF is working on its draft environmental impact report that it must file with the state’s Executive Office of Environmental Affairs to get a permit from the state’s Department of Environmental Protection. Among other permits, it also needs a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers permit, a state Chapter 91 Waterways permit and an order of conditions from Nantucket’s Conservation Commission. Given all these permits in hand, SBPF would like to start armoring the beach with fresh sand in 2006 if it gets the green light next spring.
Having been the first in years to lose part of his summer living space to the erosion, McQuade is at once enthusiastic about this latest project and defiant in the face of reality.“We know the ocean will win, but we know that we would like to have it win on a very slow schedule,” said McQuade. “For the moment, we’re going to enjoy it while we can.”

















