Keeping It In The Family: Bartlett Farm
Monday, August 1st, 2005By Amy Jenness
Years ago, when Phil and Dorothy Bartlett began running their family farm on Nantucket, they sold their vegetables from the back of a truck on Main Street because they couldnât imagine that people would drive all the way to Cisco to shop at their farm.
These days, the Bartletts still send a truck to Main Street during the summer, but itâs mostly to honor the tradition. Customers now prefer to drive out to the farm to avoid downtown traffic and parking hassles, as well as for the pleasant experience of shopping for food and flowers.
What a difference 46 years makes.
Phil and Dorothy have run their business since 1959, the year they were married. In that time, they have transformed it from a small family farm with the farmhouse and barn as epicenter into a sophisticated retail food business. Bartlettâs now has an acre of greenhouses, a commercial kitchen where cooks prepare gourmet food sold in their market and 125 acres of cultivated fields producing vegetables that end up in almost every Nantucket restaurant and on many island dinner tables.
And yet they still honor the familyâs history on land farmed by seven generations of Bartletts and by positioning that business to continue to succeed after they are gone.
Several years ago, they moved their family home to a remote section of the farm to make way for more parking. Last year the Bartletts began building a new retail complex that will house a market and café, administrative offices, a meeting room and a commercial kitchen. The 18,000 square-foot, two story post-and-beam building will be attached to more retail greenhouse space. A large, protected outdoor area, already in use, will hold nursery plants and gardening supplies for sale. The new market should be completed by the beginning of next year.
Part of farming has always been about solving problems, but the Bartlettsâ challenges have gotten more complex and changed with each decadeâ partly due to their ambitious expansions and partly due to the pressures of farming in a resort community. When they took over the farm from Philâs father, Junie Bartlett, it was a subsistence farm raising vegetables and livestock; customers were just as likely to barter as they were to pay cash.
They expanded the farm to include plants and flowers in the late 1960s as a way of generating revenue in the lean spring months. As their family grew to four children, they needed to keep expanding so they could pay the bills. But about 15 years ago, the Bartletts began to notice big changes on the island. Thatâs when they began to think about changing the farm market on a grand scale.
âWhen we found out that people would come to the farm to buy things, we kept growing more and more,â Dorothy said. âThen we found out we could hire an employee profitably year-round. That was about ten to fifteen years ago. When we noticed things like customers asking for The New York Times and a cup of coffee, we thought, âBoy, itâs hard to see a demand and not be able to meet it. âAs the [islandâs] population expanded, we felt we had to expand too,â Phil added.
Now having a good year for the Bartlettâs is as much about marketing, merchandising and management skill as it is about having good weather and fertile soil. The staff jumps from 10 workers year-round to 70 in the summer, with 50 employees living at the farm. The market product line ranges from organic food and farm-grown vegetables to outdoor furniture and accessories to houseplants, perennials and bedding plants.
Last year the Nantucket Land Council successfully concluded a $6 million fundraising campaign to purchase the development rights to 104 of the Bartlettsâ 200 acres. The Bartletts said they approached the Land Council after an estate planner told them their children would need to sell half the farm in order to pay their inheritance tax.
In Massachusetts, all property is assessed at its fair market value during the settlement of an estate. With a potential for 52 house lots selling at around $800,000 each on the 104 acre parcel, the estate tax would be hefty.
The conservation restriction lowers the value of the land and protects it from development. Dorothy and Phil say the $6 million they received for the restriction will be used to settle their estate when they die, thus ensuring that the family farm passes smoothly to the next generation.
With both the conservation restriction and the market groundbreaking happening in the same year, some people assumed the $6 million was used partly to fund the market construction.
âSo many people didnât get it. That money is set aside for the sole purpose of paying the government. The prospect was that our children would have to sell half the farm in order to keep it going, and thatâs not what we ever wanted,â Dorothy said.
Most of the BartlettsâDorothy, Phil, their children John, Daniel, David, and Cynthia, along with two daughters-in-lawâwork in the family business, from accounting to merchandising to managing the crops and keeping the equipment working. These days, Dorothy spends a lot of her time planning for the new market and helping the 60 seasonal workers who come from all over the world to integrate into farm life and island life. And Phil, during the growing months, can always be found on a tractor somewhere doing what he loves â tilling soil and planting.
âIf you do what you love, you enjoy the work, and Phil is the epitome of that,â Dorothy said. âI canât get him off his tractor. Heâs the only one that doesnât get his calls forwarded to him because heâs always out in a field somewhere.â
Bartlettâs might still be a dairy farm if the young Phil, still in junior high school at the time, hadnât taken an interest in growing tomatoes. Mentored by another Nantucket farmer, Edward Gardner on neighboring Mount Vernon Farm, Phil discovered he loved growing things. He started growing tomatoes then to sell at Bartlettâs, and heâs still growing them today.
A passion for growing things seems to have become an island-wide obsession. The Bartletts have noticed that gardening and landscaping has gotten very sophisticated in recent years. And because of that, the islandâs street vistas and yards have become a lush haven of color and texture.
âIn many cases, itâs the people who come here that have driven it. They have a knowledge and sophistication, and they have taught the landscapers,â Dorothy said. âNantucket is unique in a way. There are very few places weâve been in the world that put as much emphasis on their window boxes and containers and on their gardens as people do here.â
Avid travelers who have visited every continent, Dorothy and Phil have developed their collective vision for their farm from influences they encountered in other places. Consumer sophistication, on both the part of the Bartletts and their customers, has also influenced the direction of the farm. There are still plenty of geraniums and vinca vine for the traditionalists, but their line of retail plants has expanded to include a vast selection of perennials, and native or exotic plants. In Bartlettâs market, shoppers can find upscale planters and gardening accessories around the corner from Black Angus beef patties and domestic or imported cheeses. Gourmet appetizers, entrees and desserts prepared in the Bartlettâs Farms kitchen line freezer shelves and wire racks.
It seems unlikely that Phil and Dorothy will give up working at the farm anytime soon; he likes farming and she likes helping customers at the market too much to retire. But they have refocused: âA few years ago, I was having some health issues and couldnât work, and I was amazed to find out that things got done without me,â Dorothy said with a laugh. âNow I pretty much just work with the international kids.â
Their son John oversees the construction of the market, along with his other duties as CEO of the farm. Sons David and Daniel manage the crops and equipment. Their daughter Cynthia Bartlett Bopp is their bookkeeper. Their daughter-in-law Rebecca Bartlett is the controller. Their daughter-in-law Seanda Burns Bartlett is the buyer for the market. This year, after 29 years on Nantucketâs Town Finance Committee and 20 years as its chair, Phil relinquished his chairmanship of that group, although heâll stay on the board.
âWeâve been spending most of February and March away. Itâs not fair to let them do all the work while Iâm gone and then come back and take over for Town Meeting,â Phil noted.
But when it comes to his public service record, he said heâs the most proud of his involvement with the Nantucket Island Land Bank. Bartlett has been a member of the county commission since it was formed 20 years ago. The Land Bank purchases and preserves open space on Nantucket using a tax on real estate purchases to provide the revenue. It has preserved 2,400 acres since its inception in 1984.
âWeâve still got some things out there. And then thereâs so much property that the Land Bank owns that they havenât even begun to open up yet. Iâd like to stay on the Land Bank another five years or so.
Theyâll probably have to pull me off kicking and screaming,â Bartlett said.
















