By James Kinsella
When the passenger ferry Grey Lady swoops into the big turn just south of the Hyannis Port breakwater and enters the harbor, its riders sometimes see a little red, white and blue vessel moseying its way out toward the breakwater and the Kennedy compound beyond.
In that moment, passengers have seen a capsule history of Hy-Line Cruises Inc, the privately owned ferry company whose success has changed the way thousands of Nantucket residents, visitors and commuters travel to and from Cape Cod to the island.
Started during the Kennedy administration with Hyannis harbor tours, the Hy-Line has evolved into a multi-faceted $18 million maritime business with a devoted customer base. The company employs 80 people year-round and up to 330 at the height of the season, with a 12-vessel fleet that includes fishing craft, sightseeing boats, passenger ferries and two high-speed catamarans.
Hy-Line has run seasonal ferries to Nantucket since 1973. But the company’s year-round fast ferry service to the island, which it pioneered in 1995, has since made it a part of Nantucket’s everyday life. Last year, 280,000 people rode the Grey Lady, the company’s latest fast ferry on the route.
Propelled by water jets from four engines producing 1,875 horsepower each, the ferry cruises comfortably at 32 knots over the waters of Nantucket Sound, traveling to and from the island in about an hour each way.
The Grey Lady is fast, but more important, the $7 million vessel has shown itself to be reliable. Mechanical breakdowns are few. Bad weather seldom stops it.
That reliability has been the key ingredient that’s earned the vessel a fierce loyalty from many frequent ferry travelers on the Hyannis-Nantucket route. That ingredient has helped the vessel to dominant the fast-ferry market for the route, besting the Steamship Authority’s own entry, the Flying Cloud.
The Flying Cloud, which entered service in May 2000, has missed so many scheduled trips— usually for engine or mechanical-related breakdowns—that the ferry has become a major headache for the Authority. This past winter, the boat line pulled the vessel out of operation from early January through mid-March, conceding the route’s winter market to the Grey Lady.
Family successes
Hy-Line, which is owned by the Scudder family, will soon launch yet another year-round fast ferry operation, this one between Hyannis and Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. Some observers question whether the move is wise, whether the Scudders are opening themselves to traveling back and forth with a mostly empty boat. But history has shown that betting against the Scudders usually doesn’t pay off.
“They’re businessmen,” said Lynne Poyant, who worked for Hy-Line for 19 years and is now executive director of the Hyannis Area Chamber of Commerce. “When they started the fast ferry, they had done the research.”
The Nantucket and Vineyard fast ferries are among the latest chapters in a story that goes back more than four decades, to when Jack Kennedy was president, to that colorful little boat and to two brothers named Bob and Dick Scudder.
The Scudder brothers were the grandsons of Freeman Scudder, who operated an Osterville, Massachusetts, coal company. The company evolved into the fuel oil company Scudder & Taylor, owned by their father, Frederic Scudder, and his partner E. Raymond Taylor. By the start of the 1960s, the family’s businesses were centered at the intersection of Ocean Street and Old Colony Way in Hyannis. There was the oil company.There were the family homes.And there was Scudder Sunoco, located close to the Christy’s convenience store and gas station that now occupies a corner along the Hyannis waterfront and near Hy-Line’s Ocean Street docks and offices.
Bob and Dick Scudder ran the gas station. Even then, the brothers were thinking about ways to expand the business.
In the late 1950s, they began using two school buses, named the Scudder Hey and the Scudder Ho, to take tourists on a loop through Hyannis and the town of Barnstable.
A few years later, the national spotlight fell on the Cape after Senator John F. Kennedy, a summer Hyannis Port resident, was elected President of the United States in November, 1960. Then as now, people came to Hyannis asking directions to the Kennedy family compound. And then as now, the best way to see the compound wasn’t from land, where the homes were blocked off and shielded from view, but rather from the water.
As purveyors of Scudder Sunoco in downtown Hyannis, Bob and Dick Scudder spent a lot of time giving tourists directions to Hyannis Port. They also knew that boat tours from Hyannis harbor had started including views of the Kennedy compound in their itineraries.
Both men knew the water. Indeed, both were graduates of Massachusetts Maritime Academy. The family owned property at the northwest corner of the Hyannis harbor, which they had accepted in lieu of a fuel oil bill, so they decided to go into the harbor tour business. After they went looking for a boat, a 65-foot vessel named the Prudence— built in 1911 and used on a run between Bristol and Prudence Island in Rhode Island— became available.
The Scudders bought the Prudence and tied the boat at their corner of the Ocean Street docks. Old waterfront hands came by to see the vessel. Skip Scudder’s heart sank as he heard one say, “Jeez, I wish ‘em luck, but they’ll never make it.”
Again, the Scudders took turns on the boat, with one brother skippering during the morning while the other worked at the gas station, and then switching jobs for the afternoon. They were personable and popular captains. The Prudence was the largest of the harbor tour boats.
The business took off.
By the mid-1960s, another opportunity opened up for the Scudders when a local man approached them about running a recreational fishing boat out of Hyannis harbor. They took it on, and that, too, became a success. In 1971, the Scudders used the ferry East Chop to head south— not for a Nantucket route, covered by other companies with seasonal runs, but for Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard.
Smart moves
In 1973, a key turning point came for the Scudders, courtesy of the Steamship Authority. The Authority, created by the state in 1960 to ensure reliable, year-round ferry transportation to the islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, had talked about running ferries directly from Hyannis to Nantucket, instead of from Woods Hole.
The presence of the Steamship Goliath operating from Hyannis was enough to scare off yet another company, the Hyannis Island Line, which operated seasonal ferries to Nantucket. Because of the pending challenge from the Steamship Authority, the Island Line looked a short distance up the Ocean Street docks and offered up its business to the Scudders and Hyannis Harbor Tours Inc.
More than 30 years later, Phil Scudder, one of Dick Scudder’s sons and now vice president of marketing for Hy-Line, gets up from a conference table at the company’s Channel Point Road office in Hyannis and comes back with a framed check for $30,000.
The money was the down payment for the assets of the Hyannis Island Line: its ferries, its building on Channel Point Road and its dock space at the southwest corner of the Ocean Street docks.
The Scudders would run a seasonal service to Nantucket in direct competition with the Steamship Authority.
One of the brothers’ first decisions—in early appreciation of Nantucket’s psyche— was to leave out of the deal the Siasconset, a big ferry that was being run by the Hyannis Island Line, known as the Hi-Line. Walter Beinecke, the economic visionary who owned much of downtown Nantucket including Straight Wharf where the Hi-Line docked, wasn’t keen on the Siasconset pouring out up to 1,000 passengers at a time onto the streets of Nantucket. The Scudders decided instead to run smaller ferries more frequently.
The Scudders decided to retain the familiar Hi-Line logo— a whale found on the door of their Channel Point Road office. The blue whale with a cheerful smile became the new company’s symbolic mascot. The Scudders also absorbed and tweaked the name, eventually calling it the Hy-Line.
Battle of the boats
Again the Scudders succeeded. People liked the company’s emphasis on service. In response, the Scudders began expanding their Nantucket trips farther outside the traditional summer season, counting on a grandfathering clause to protect them as an existing operation before the Steamship started running Nantucket trips from Hyannis.
The Authority, however, was less enamored by Hy-Line’s steady siphoning of its business. In 1984, the matter boiled over into a court battle in Barnstable Superior Court. In 1985, Judge Elizabeth Dolan sided with the Steamship Authority, holding that the grandfathering clause only extended as far as the old Hi-Line’s original seasonal schedule when the Authority came to Hyannis in 1973, which ran from May to October. Future expansion of their business on the Hyannis-Nantucket route would need Steamship Authority approval as well.
Wanting to expand but confronted with a now more constricted schedule, the Hy-Line responded with what would become a de facto operating principle: emphasizing quality over quantity.
The idea became reality with the arrival in 1988 of the ferry Great Point. The Great Point – a 195-foot vessel that cost $4 million and could carry 800 passengers – was a significantly larger vessel than the company had been running on the Nantucket route. The Great Point offered a more comfortable ride, a faster journey and an upscale first-class section whose tickets sold at a premium.
By the early 1990s, a basic equilibrium had evolved on the Nantucket route. The Steamship stayed its course, moving passengers and their vehicles on the Nantucket route on a no-frills, year-round basis. Hy-Line appeared at the start of the season, offering more comfort at a higher price, before closing down for the winter.
But the Scudders weren’t done yet.
By this time, company management had expanded to the second generation. Bob Scudder died in 1978; his son Skip came aboard, first running the family fuel oil business, then joined the Hy-Line in 1990 after the fuel business was sold.
Dick Scudder’s children— Phil, David, Murray and Susan— also became involved in management after learning the business from the inside-out. “We worked our way up from the bilges,” Phil Scudder recalled. Their father, Dick Scudder, today remains as chairman.
The Scudders had developed a friendship with George Duclos, who ran the Gladding-Hearn Shipyard in Somerset, Massachusetts. One day, Duclos invited them for a ride aboard a new kind of ferry, a high-speed catamaran.
Zipping along
Skip Scudder remembers the ferry zipping its way downtown to Newport and back. The running time of the trip was about an hour. The Scudders considered the possibility: One hour.One hour to Nantucket.
Back in Hyannis, they began to research high-speed catamarans, their operating cost and what a passenger would conceivably pay for a quicker passage to Nantucket.
“The numbers worked,” Phil Scudder said. Their excitement grew. Hy-Line wasn’t so much targeting the lumbering Authority boats as it was the commuter air shuttle services operated by Island Air and Nantucket Airlines. The airlines, flying nine-passenger Cessna 402s, offered 15-minute hops year-round between the Hyannis and Nantucket airports.
Hy-Line decided to come in around the same price points offered by the commuter airlines, hoping that the slower trip over the water would be fast enough to draw away people who would prefer not to fly. The company also emphasized the “downtown-to-downtown” aspect of the ferry, cutting out the cost and time of taxi rides to and from the airports.
In December 1995, the company’s new $1.9 million catamaran, the Grey Lady, left the Ocean Street docks on its maiden voyage. On board were the crew, the Scudders and one paying customer.
That first winter was difficult, Phil Scudder remembered, given a mix of tough weather and skimpy ridership. “If we had six or eight people on board, we were happy,” he said.
They soon acquired unexpected allies in Nantucket’s booming construction business and in the fog that sporadically closed down the morning airline commute out of Hyannis. Suddenly influxes of tradesmen on their way to jobs on Nantucket were coming aboard.
The Scudders decided to stay in the high-speed business, but they also wanted a bigger, more powerful ferry. The first Grey Lady could get pushed around by the sometimes tempestuous waters of Nantucket Sound, making for an uncomfortable ride that would slow the vessel and throw it off its schedule.
Hy-Line went back to Gladding-Hearn and ordered a larger fast ferry, which would become the Grey Lady II. The company also prepared for the challenge of convincing the Steamship Authority to allow them to fill the larger ferry. Hy-Line had initially avoided dealing with the Authority when it launched its fast ferry service by stipulating that their the vessel would carry no more than 40 passengers, making Authority approval unnecessary.
The Steamship Authority was less than thrilled by the Hy-Line proposal, seeing the Scudders up to their old tricks of skimming the cream from the Nantucket-Hyannis route. In the end, the Authority allowed the service, though at a lower passenger level than requested by Hy-Line.
The Grey Lady II, with its larger quarters and more comfortable ride, was an even bigger hit than the first Grey Lady.
In May 2000, the Steamship Authority launched its own entry into the Hyannis-Nantucket fast ferry market, the Flying Cloud. But that new ferry, larger and permitted to carry more passengers than the Grey Lady II, immediately ran into a string of nautical mishaps and mechanical breakdowns.
In the battle of the fast ferries, reliability has so far won the day for Hy-Line.
The Grey Lady II and its successor—a larger vessel again named simply Grey Lady, which came into service in May 2003— have rarely broken down and tend to run in all but the roughest weather. Meanwhile, the Flying Cloud has missed more than 1,000 trips during its four years of service, eroding whatever customer loyalty it might have earned. This past winter, the Steamship Authority didn’t bother running the vessel.
Vineyard bound
The Scudders’ latest initiative— to offer fast ferry service from Hyannis to Oak Bluffs, along the lines of the Hyannis-Nantucket service— came about as a creative redeployment of the Grey Lady II, which had been leased to a California ferry company but was returned last fall.
Hy-Line has seen ridership fall in recent years on its conventional summer ferry service between Hyannis and Oak Bluffs, which takes about an hour-and-a-half to travel one-way. Based on their Nantucket experience, the Scudders suspected that a faster trip might draw more passengers. “Everyone wants to go fast these days,” Skip Scudder said. “You have to meet he market.”
The Scudders also saw a fast year-round Vineyard operation as tapping two under-served markets: Vineyarders who want a more convenient way to get to mid-Cape stores or medical and educational services, and residents from Lower Cape towns such as Orleans and Brewster who otherwise rarely travel to the Vineyard.
Public hearings held by the Steamship Authority drew mostly positive comments. On March 17, the Authority board followed management’s recommendation to license the service for two years, collecting a per-rider fee that would increase as passenger volume rose, akin to the agreement governing the Grey Lady on the Hyannis-Nantucket route.
Marc Hanover, the Vineyard’s Steamship representative, had reservations about the proposal, but decided to vote in favor of it.
Speaking of the Scudders, he said, “They do a great job, which scares me, and there’s enormous public support on the Vineyard for this.”
Hy-Line plans to start the service June 25. Aware of rivalries between the two islands, the Scudders plan to drop the “Grey Lady” name and hold a contest on the Vineyard to rename the boat.
Loyal fans
These days, traveling on the Grey Lady between Hyannis and Nantucket is something like joining a floating fan club, especially in the off-season.
“The best,” proclaims Ben Gannett of Nantucket and Manchester, traveling on a Saturday with his wife, Lummy, and their two retrievers, Barnaby and Baisley. “It’s a great, great operation all the way around. The family that runs it— they get it.”
For Carole Brackett of Centerville, the issue is one of “trust.” Brackett said she could rely on the Grey Lady, unlike “the one that breaks down every two weeks,” a reference to the Flying Cloud.“I think it’s a great service,” she said. “The staff is always cheerful. They enjoy their work.”
The mood is amiable up in the pilot house, where captain Robert Bazydlo and mate Peter Buckler operate in an environment more like the starship Enterprise than a conventional wheel house. Buckler calls it “the best office in the world.”
Both Bazydlo and Buckler have put in a lot of years with Hy-Line. Bazydlo has been with the company since 1965. He was one of the first captains on the company’s sightseeing and fishing boats. Buckler, who started as a parking lot attendant 15 years ago, was hoping to get the company nod as a captain on the new Oak Bluffs fast ferry service.
For Bazydlo, his shift on board the Grey Lady hardly qualifies as work. “What else are you going to do and play with someone’s multi-million-dollar vessels?”
The three Grey Ladies, Bazydlo said, all have had distinct personalities. The first Grey Lady, he said, was a ballerina. The Grey Lady II, although it had the ride control that the first vessel lacked, was more ornery during docking.
Bazydlo said the third Grey Lady (which doesn’t carry any Roman numerals) “is a gentle giant. She’s a honey.”
Among the best moments in the pilot house, Bazydlo said, “is a bright moonlit night with a full moon up there so you can see right down to Nantucket…It’s gorgeous. Sunrises and sunsets are always the best.”
“There’ve been ugly days out here, too,” Bazydlo said. But he said the Grey Lady keeps them from being uglier. “This boat is just so good on the seas.”